Larry IV> Travels

After spending a day in Irkusk and visiting Lystvyanka, a cute little town on Baikul, I met Kyra at the train station. The next day we set out for Olkhan Island, six hours north of Irkusk by minibus. We had to take a ferry to get onto the Island from the mainland and fortunately we got to see a big fist fight between 5 locals and the crew. It seemed to be over getting there car onto the ferry. The best part about the fight is there was a woman with a camera taking pictures of it the whole time. She was using a point and shoot film camera. They look so dated now that everyone in the West uses digitals or if still on film, nice SLR's. The fight was a sort of forshawdowing for the battle that was to take place on the island.

Olkhan Island was a Beaut. Lake Baikul is the deepest lake in the world. In fact you, can't even fathom how deep it is. The water is really clean and steep Mountains rise around the lake, making for postcard quality landscapes. The main youth hostel on the island is owned by a guy named Nikita, Russia's former National ping pong champion. It was a great hostel and although they were full, they were able to arrange for us a homestay with one of their neighbors.

I quickly let it be known that I was infact unofficially America's Former Ping Pong champion. Word got back to Nikita and a challenge was issued. We met later that evening in the hostel's ping pong room. A large and rowdy crowd of Russians, drunk on Vodka and national pride, cheered for Nikita loudly. We started the first game with Nikita edging me out 21-0. The second game was a bit closer as I almost returned one of his shots, but the score was also 21-0. Through that game I could hear spots of cheering when I would serve. I lost the third game 21-0 also, but again, I seemed to be winning over the crowd, who were no longer cheering for Nikita. By the fourth game the cheering was loud and at 17-0 I returned one of Nikita's shots hard and his return went into the net. A sudden hush filled the room. Like a missile crisis kind of hush. The Russian was cut! The crowd then suddenly erupted in cheers. Covered in sweat I took a short water break. Kyra leaned over and said to me, "He's worried! You cut him! You hurt him! You see? You see? He's not a machine, he's a man!"

After the game, which I lost 21-1, I gave a speech and this is what I said. "When I started this ping pong match, it seemed none of you's liked me all that much, and I really didn't like you's too much either. Over the past 15 minutes, two men having been killing each other on this ping pong table. During the game, I've seen a lot of changing, in the way I feel about you, and the way you feel about me. I guess what I'm trying to say is that if I can change, and you can change, everyone can change." This seemed to be lost on the crowd as none of them spoke English.